Category Archives: Horticulture

Tomato Soup II

Okay, yesterday I put down the practical, procedural part; now for the notes and theory.

Most tomato soup recipes involve three basic steps: prepare the soup base, puree and sieve it, and finally reheat and season.

TEXTURE: We followed the program to a point, then struck out in our own, decadent direction.  Now that I think about it, we didn’t even make it all the way through step 1, since I had my usual reaction to the instructions to slip the skins and toss them, which was, Huh? And I would be doing this why precisely?

After consultation with Steve, who looked similarly blank, I decided to skip both that and the sieving required by step 2. This makes for a vastly simplified process, always a plus as I’m an enthusiastic but disorganized cook.

I’m even less clear on a motive for tossing the skins after trying it with skins on (twice now). It’s true we weren’t going for a Campbell’s creamy-smooth texture; there was actually some stuff (including pale spots identifiable as seeds! Horrors!) that settled to the bottom of the pot, or bowl, but there certainly weren’t strands or clumps of skin floating around.

GARLIC: Here’s a step I don’t recommend taking short-cuts on: garlic prep. If you toss firm cloves of garlic into the soup mix and cook them only briefly, the blender might just chip away at the outside, leaving a large and startling core for someone to chomp down on. Therefore, mash. The easiest way is to set the flat of a knife on an unpeeled clove and give it a good hard whack. This breaks the dry papery shell, making it easy to remove, and crushes the clove as well.

THICKNESS: (I first typed THINCKNESS, which seems to me to imply all sorts of possibilities.) If you’re planning to add milk or cream, cut back on stock.

Tomato Soup

In the end it wasn’t sauce I made but soup, and wow was it good! I hauled out all our cookbooks and combined a recipe from the first Moosewood with one from The Vegetarian Epicure. Here’s the result, with notes tomorrow.

The Recipe

Roughly chop 1c. onion and crush, chop, or mash 5-10 cloves garlic, depending on taste.

Sautee the onion and garlic in 3T olive oil.

Halve or quarter 7 medium tomatoes (5-6 cups), and when the onions are transparent, toss in the tomatoes.

Add 1-2 c. vegetable stock, depending on size and ripeness of tomatoes: more, riper tomatoes can be more diluted.

Simmer 5-15 min.

Puree in blender or Quisinart; return to stove.

Add: salt, pepper, basil, dash of Worstershire sauce, pinch of brown sugar. In other words, season to taste.

Thicken if desired by stirring liquid from the pot, 1T at a time, into 1-2 T flour.  Each bit of liquid should be thoroughly stirred into the flour to avoid lumps.  When the mixture is quite snooth and liquid, add it to the soup, stirring quickly and thoroughly. 

Optional: cream, milk, condensed milk or some combination of these. If you add milk or cream, do it at the very end, and DO NOT BOIL after the addition.

We had the soup with a potato souffle (also from the Vegetarian Epicure, the potatoes also from the garden–first time the home-growns have lasted so long!)–and garlic bread. Hard to beat.

Tomato Harvest in December

A few days before Christmas I harvested my tomatoes. This is late anywhere in the northern hemisphere, but here in Montana it’s absurd. I wish I could claim credit of some sort (Breakthrough! Cold-Busting Tomato Developed! Local gardening Gardner touts cold-tolerant tomato.) But no; the late date just testifies to my late start last spring.

I did my picking in the basement, where I’d hung my vines a couple of months back, upside down and full of green tomatoes–over eighty on my finest specimen, even after I’d plucked those damaged by frost. These were soft, and a darker green than the healthy ones. I’d done everything a good tomato-mother can do to protect the plants from frost–swaddled some plants, put hoops and  plastic over others, erected full-fledged greenhouses around others–but despite the protective layers, some suffered.

So at last I conceded, pulled the plants, and hung them from the big nails in the basement beams near, not so conveniently, the washing machine and the table where I dry sweaters in winter and plant seedlings come spring. Somehow, picking in the basement lacks romance, and the crumbling leaves sticking to my sweater and drifting to the floor couldn’t compete with flexible foliage. Still, there’s something satisfying about picking tomato after ripe tomato and piling them all in a bowl in the kitchen.

As the photo shows, I also picked plenty of green tomatoes, and these are unlikely ever to ripen no matter how much I swaddle and coddle them. I’ve made green-tomato chutney before, so this year I may try green-tomato pie. As for the ripe ones–they’re probably not of salad quality but should make good sauce.

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The photo is pretty true to color, and you can see that while some of the tomatoes are the classic slightly orange of  "tomato red," several lack that orange tint. These are my heirlooms, and the pity is that I don’t know the variety, since I just planted a few seeds from a package of mixed heirloom seeds. It is true though, as heirloom aficionados insist, that these tomatoes have an intensity that puts others to shame. Interesting that that intense flavor is matched by this intense color.

Tales of an Organic Gardner: My little space under the big sky

We did not choose this house for its gardening possibilities. We are not that crazy, despite what our children say. We chose it, I suspect, because it was built of logs and surrounded by trees and made us feel as though we really were living in Montana.

Of course, as you scan the photo below you’re probably thinking, "What house?" Which is precisely the point. Long-time residents of Bozeman have had to be talked in to our front steps via cell-phone, because they couldn’t see the house for the trees. (That white clapboard in the lower left? That’s the neighbor’s house.)

Front_w_2The West’s contribution to my "garden" is two clumps of conifers, one fore and one aft, which do wonders for ambiance but nothing for the vegetables. Don’t get me wrong — they’re great trees and I love them: love the smell, and the sound, and the sense of forest they bring to our home — but they’re hell on gardening.

So much so that I’ve variously begged and bullied until my husband has agreed to take down several of the smaller ones: a sickly cedar and two young but bushy items whose identity remains unknown, though ash is on the suspect list. The rest of the family (the afore-mentioned husband and our two sons) look on such cullings with grave disapproval, and I am persona non gratis after each tree-attack. (Arthritis keeps me out of the direct tree-cutting business, to their relief no doubt, and restricts my role to nagging, to their regret.) After one particularly active tree-cutting season, my older son, seeing me get ready to go outside, would ask acerbically, "Going to cut down a tree?"

Given my ostracization, it was a relief that the telephone company took out one of the trees. For that one at least, I bear no responsibility.

Even after all this pruning, there is literally no place on our lot that gets full sun. It’s not a big lot to begin with. The front "yard", on the east side of the house, is a non-starter, being occupied by four sixty-foot tall spruce trees, and therefore by nothing else save a lot of pine needles.

The north is a narrow strip of grass, neither big nor sunny enough to do much. Let’s not go there.

Bk_yd_5 The west side of the house actually has a few square feet of ill-tended scrappy lawn, (with a pine in the middle, naturally) a gradually disintegrating log garage (with another large pine by it), and more trees, all conifers now that I’ve had my way with the other ash, save for a non-bearing choke cherry. (Too much shade, perhaps?).

To the south, the front-yard spruce grove continues its hegemony, adding another great tree to its number. (As a result, the house stays marvelously cool in summer, and remarkably cold in winter.) Then there’s the cement patio, where I grow tomatoes in a row of barrels up against the house. Of course, they’re shaded by a tree (deciduous for once) that grows just over the fence by the neighbor’s house.

The projecting roof of that house actually shoves the tree towards us, creating an exemplary illustration of the silver-lining theory (every silver lining requires a cloud), for it (the tree, not the theory) provides welcomeS_spruce_4_6 patio shade in summer but equally unwelcome shade for my container plants in summer and fall. Round October it (the tree) seems to be deciduous only in theory (a different theory), or at least dedicated to the proposition that all trees, not just Russian olives, should hang onto their leaves all year, for fall is what they don’t and don’t and don’t, though as you can see in the photo to the right taken on November 11th, they finally do. All along the south fence our neighbor’s yard offers a steady supply of shade for our lawn and for my peas and lettuce: a chokecherry that does bear entwined in something big and dead, a miniature plum, a crab apple, another ash, and then their share of conifers.

Alley_tr_3_4 This leaves the strip along the alley, beyond the garage. Of course, because of the garage, the tree over it, the trees in our neighbor’s yard, and the pines in ours, that strip gets no sun until between twelve and two, depending on the season, and thanks to the tall lilac hedge across the alley (not to mention the two-storey garage) the sun lasts until between five and six. My alley plots therefore get between three and six hours of full sun — not what’s generally recommended for squash or eggplant.

That’s the situation: a small, urban lot (in Montana!) with eight major conifers on it, a bunch of other trees on and around, and a die-hard glutton-for-punishment ex-New Yorker trying to raise a few organic vegetables on what’s left.

So if this post seems to be increasingly hung-over, or over-hung, by large, looming trees; if the text seems in danger of disappearing into a forest of photographs, well, all I can say is, Yup.

From our yard, it’s not such a big sky at all.

–Kate Gardner

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